Charleston, SC
Christmastime in Charleston, SC
2009
Welcome to Charleston, SC, the “Grand Old City,” rich in the history of Native Americans, English settlers, the American Revolution, the Civil War, and Reconstruction. Arguably the prettiest town in the South, Charleston was named for King Charles II of Britain. Situated in the Low Country, it exudes charm, hospitality, and culture. For the Christmas holidays, she offers her prettiest face and many seasonal activities in addition to the many usual leisure interests.
Our start was at the Visitor Center, to learn a little about Charleston, and buy tickets. The Center is in the old train depot, and so full of character and history. Coming from the Center, we followed the Museum Mile, named for the many historic sites along a mile of Meeting Street. A 3 museum pass at the Charleston Museum allowed us to see the museum, the Joseph Manigualt House and the Heyward-Washington for $22 total per person instead of paying $10 for each. The Joseph Manigault House is open for 30 minute guided tours. It was built in 1803 and is beautiful! I could easily live there. Exquisite crown molding, wood floors, fireplaces, long windows, crystal chandeliers, and a floating staircase make this a stand out! During the 1800s other building, including the kitchen, stable, well, and privies were on the grounds. Today visitors see the bedrooms, dining room, drawing room, music chamber and sitting room furnished in antique period pieces. A back stairway was used by servants and young children. The home was decorated for the Christmas holiday in period style, making it festive and bright. The house was saved from destruction in the 1920s by the beginnings of the Charleston Preservation Society. Descendents of Joseph live in the area even today. http://preservationsociety.org/
The Charleston Museum has more exhibits than immediately meet the eye! Exhibits include jewelry, silver, animals, ancient Egypt, Native Americans, the history of Charleston from early settlement of the English through modern day, and MaryJo’s favorite, wedding gowns through the ages. Maybe it’s a”girl thing.” The display is titled Aisle Style and ranges from wedding gowns in the early 1800s, with empire waists, through the full skirted 1850s styles, into the high necked Victorian, and on into the tent dresses of the late 1960s, with everything in between. Colors, lengths, and styles reflect the changes in culture. Accessories such as shoes, gloves, veils, and even invitations are also shown. A Kids Area offers engaging interactive exhibits. This museum is a real treat. We spent over an hour there. http://charlestonmuseum.org/topic.asp?id=1
The Market is a huge open air shopping area selling scarves, bright shiny things, books, baskets, tile, statues, and the list goes on and on. Cafes and ice cream stands are there, too. It’s a lot of fun, and could take hours!
A.W. Shucks was our lunch choice, and we are happy with it! I had the seafood casserole, a scrumptious combination of crab, shrimp, scallops, and lobster sauce with Carolina red rice and veggies. Greg had the shrimp and crawfish etouffe. Given a choice, he usually chooses crawfish. He devoured every bite. Service was very good. Our total was $29 with two local beers.
http://www.a-w-shucks.com/cms_pages/index.php
Historic King Street presents all manner of shopping: clothes, jewelry, home goods, art, books, antiques, and mostly anything else that might interest a shopper! There are many people watching opportunities. Francis Marion Park is on the walk. He was a Revolutionary War hero. Further on is Washington Square, honoring George Washington. Memorials to several notables are there, comprising Andrew Jackson’s mother, General Beauregard of the Confederacy, and more. Enjoy the distinctive Charleston architecture and historic sites. Looking is free.
James Island County Park hosts the Holiday Festival of Lights, a dazzling display! For $10 a carload, you can drive the 3 mile lake loop, and are permitted to go around as often as you like. Skaters, a golfing Santa, leaping dolphin, elf chasing alligator, flying doves and a tumbling gingerbread man, along with decorated trees, a gingerbread house, and a Hanukah display will delight the kid in all of us. For the really young, there is a train ride, carousel, and of course, meeting Santa. scgreatoutdoors.com/park-jamesisland.html
On the way back to our hotel, we stopped at Jasmine, a tiny Thai restaurant for supper. Greg had a tasty spicy mixture of pork, chicken, peppers, peas, and cashews while I had chicken, lemon grass, carrots, and onions. Delish! Total with a hot tea and soft drink was $28. We brought home leftovers! It was a full day! Tomorrow we’ll visit our 3rd museum.
Day 2
This was a pretty day, although chilly, and excellent for walking Charleston. Our Charleston Stroll began at 10:00 at the Mills Hotel. Our guide, Ruth Miller, who is a former classroom teacher, is a natural teacher for this tour! Did you know that the Scots brought golf to America by way of Charleston? Or that the Baptist Church had its start here? Or that the Irish Hibernians extend membership to Jewish citizens? Or that homes that sold for $60,000 20 years ago are worth $1,000,000 or more today? All this and more we learned through Ruth’s entertaining and riveting stories. She pointed out historical homes and told us who owned them today. The mistletoe high in the tree, the slate roofs, and three feet wide public roads were revealed to us by Ruth. The two hours flew by! Ruth is an author, speaker, and local historian. The $16 per person fee is a bargain, in our opinion, and we’d gladly take another tour. www.discovercharleston.com/attractions/attractions.htm?type=Tours&id=117
It was lunchtime, and we had passed the Fuschia Tea Emporium on Church Street. Hot tea and a sandwich sounded good! The fun started right away when we were allowed to choose our tea cups. Next, a big decision: which tea? Herbal, green, black, traditional, fusion? I chose Barry’s, an Irish tea. Greg had the mango, pineapple, and chili. Both were full of flavor! Then, which sandwich? Greg opted for the Irish Dip: eye of round with Swiss cheese and Guinness sauce. I had the chicken salad with almonds and apricots on brown bread. Both came with a choice of soup or salad. We both decided on the green and red curry lentil soup. What a treat this lunch was! Jodi, our server was cheerful, helpful and friendly. She served us fresh pots of tea and offered us dessert. We passed on that – this time. The tab was a good deal at $27! American Express and Discover Card are not accepted. http://server-49.net/emporium.com/
We still had to visit our third museum, the Heyward –Washington House on Church St, just a short walk from lunch. George Washington really did stay there! The house has the most extensive collection of Charleston made furniture in the city! It is the first house preserved by the Preservation Society! The house was built in 1772, and is an example of the four square house: a center hall with two rooms on each side. It is a lovely home, especially the drawing room with its red furnishings. Out back is the kitchen, stables, other out buildings, and gardens. Kitchens were always separate from the house according to law. Kitchens often caught fire, and could have burned the house down if part of it. The first floor was the public or business area. The family lived on the second and third floors. Our tour lasted about 40 minutes. http://www.charlestonmuseum.org/topic.asp?id=21
A walk along East Bay St. brought us to the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon. This was an old market, a prison during the American Revolution, and first post office. Worth a look, the admission is $7 per person, including the Dungeon’s guided tour. American Express is not accepted. Allow about 30 minutes.
We left town, then, and drove to Boone Hall Plantation, featured in the movies “Queen,” “North and South,’ and “The Notebook.” The museum is in Mt. Pleasant, about 20 minutes north of Charleston. Our $17. 50 admissions included house tour, Gullah presentation, self guided tour of the slave quarters, history lesson on slavery, wagon ride, and freedom to roam the gardens. This could be an all day event. We toured the house, a lavish creation with actual antiques. It is privately owned, and was built in the 1930s on the site of the original home. It has a basement and wine cellar, one of the few in the area to be able to. Only the first floor is open to the public. We enjoyed the Gullah presentation! Gullah is an abbreviated term of Angola, where the slaves were from. It is the culture of a people. It includes food, religion, music, language, customs, and beliefs. Joe, the presenter, had us clapping, singing, laughing, and enthralled! http://boonehallplantation.com/
Imagine our excitement when we passed Gullah Cuisine on Hwy, 17 North in Mt. Pleasant! We had just learned more about the culture, and what better way to extend our new found knowledge than to sample some food! I decided on the okra gumbo, loaded with chicken, shrimp, sausage, and okra. It was very spicy and very tasty! Greg went with his old favorite, crawfish etouffe, served Gullah style. He proclaimed it wonderful! The food was filling without being heavy. Total for both was $33. http://gullahcuisine.com/
Day3
There is an off the trails type museum in City Hall, on the second floor. It contains many portraits of famous Americans, including the famous one of George Washington and the back end of his horse. A story goes with this! When George visited Charleston in the 1790s, an artist was commissioned to paint his portrait. It was a wonderful likeness, but in the background was the Battle of Trenton, having no relationship to the city of Charleston. The city fathers were not happy, and demanded a re- painting. The artist, a New Englander, was willing to oblige, for another fee. When the painting arrived again, there in the background was the city. Under the horse’s lifted tail were the mayor and council. It was obvious what the horse was about to do! The painting hangs in a place of honor today. Our guide was very knowledgeable and funny, and we left knowing more about the city’s history. Did you know the 1920s dance the Charleston was invented in Charleston? Now we all know! http://www.nps.gov/history/nr/travel/charleston/cch.htm
Strolling along, we discovered the Pink House on Chalmers St., which proclaims itself the oldest stone house in the city. Built in the 1690s, it was a tavern, a brothel, and is currently an art gallery. The narrow stairs, woodwork, and fireplaces give it authentic ambience! We saw a photograph of a woman’s ghost on the stairs. Ghosts are such a part of the culture! http://pinkhousegallery.tripod.com/
The Slave Mart Museum tells the story of slavery in South Carolina, focusing on family live, customs, education, and mistreatment. It is in the old Slave Market, and is $7 per person. Photos are not permitted, and American Express isn’t either. http://www.charlestonlowcountry.com/about/slaveMart.html
A very nice local place to have lunch is Joseph’s, on Meeting St near Queen St. Greg chose the local oyster po’boy, while I feasted on the flank steak salad. We had tea and a coke. Both meals were quite tasty, and the service was very good. Total for lunch was $25. http://josephsofcharleston.com/
The Civil War started at Ft. Sumter on April 12, 1861 when Confederates fired on the Union troops in the fort. We’ve focused on the Colonial Period, and want to know more about the Civil War Period. A ferry carries tourists to Ft. Sumter in Charleston Harbor, and we were on the afternoon tour. On the way, a recorded message relates the story of Maj. Anderson of the Union and his former student and friend, Gen. Beauregard of the Confederacy who were the major players and the history of Ft. Sumter. Other forts in the harbor area are pointed out, such as Ft. Moultrie. Some surprising facts! Did you know that the first Union shot was fired by Abner Doubleday? He invented American baseball. The first casualty of the battle died loading his own cannon during the exit ceremony. Fort Sumter has undergone many changes in the years since the Civil War. Cannons, the powder magazine, and remnants of barracks are present. A museum provides background and exhibits, including the American flag that flew over the fort during the battle, and returned to the fort with Maj. Anderson at the end of the war. The fort is currently being renovated, and water and bathrooms are not available. The round trip ride is an hour, and there is an hour at the fort. Included in the tour is a video and a re- enactment. The hour wasn’t long enough! The fee is $16 per person; the ferry leaves from both Patriot’s Point and Liberty Square twice a day. A small gift shop and visitor center are at Liberty Square. http://www.nps.gov/fosu/index.htm
Before our next activity, we stopped to eat at Aroma’s across from the Market. It’s a small Thai-American place. We both had the Pad Thai, a national Thai dish. Drink specials were raspberry chocolate martinis, for $5 each, and were they wonderful! Desert before dinner! Dinner was also delicious, and more than we could eat in one sitting! The meals were $41 including the martinis.
Do you know the difference between a graveyard and a cemetery? A Ghost and Graveyard Tour wound up the day. Our guide led us on a 90 minute, one mile walk around the old town, through graveyards, and regaled us with ghost stories and history tales. We learned the origin of such phrases as “dead ringer” and “saved by the bell,” both originating in the graveyard. If you are still thinking about our question, here’s the answer: graveyards are near churches and cemeteries are not. The cost is $16 per person. http://www.discovercharleston.com/attractions/attractions.htm?type=Tours&id=117
There is so much to do here; it would take many more days to see all we want – maybe a month!
Day 4
We’re winding up our too short stay by touring Drayton Hall, on the outskirts of the city, on Ashley River Road. About 25 minutes from town, it is the only “big house” intact in almost original condition. The architecture is Palladian, making it the kind of mansion many of us think of when we think antebellum. The house is being left at it was, preserved but not restored. Some additional details were added after the original building was finished, and they have been left. The house is a four square, two rooms flanking a large central hall. There are some exquisite architectural details, including ceiling medallions, columns, and fireplace friezes. A family growth chart is a charming and endearing reminder that families once lived here! The out buildings have been outlined on the grounds: stable, kitchens, etc. Remaining are the well and privy, a remarkable structure with a fireplace and several seats! Guided tours take about 60 minutes. A self guided marsh walk, river walk, African American cemetery, and interactive program are available. It is a real Southern Plantation. Cost is $14 per person. Allow 2 – 3 hours. http://www.draytonhall.org/
On the way out of South Carolina, we spotted the West Ashley Crab Shack on Ashley River Road. It was extremely eclectic outside, and seemed our kind of place. Exploring the inside, we saw it was the same, and definitely our kind of place! Buckets in the middle of the tables help the shells from the free peanuts, murals, baskets over the lights, and life preservers created a fun atmosphere. I had the fried green tomato BLT. Greg had the crab patty melt. We sampled the local beer. We both enjoyed our lunch! Our tab was $22. http://www.crabshacks.com/west_ashley.htm
Charleston is a beautiful and vibrant city, which we thoroughly relished. We hope to return soon!