Kayaking Key Largo to Key West

By Benjie Baskin

     Having lived in South Florida on and off for the past eight years, I’ve developed a rather long “to-do” list.  Some of the activities are quite time consuming and require a significant amount of preparation, such as the one I’m writing of now.  

     I’d been residing in the Florida Keys over the last six months. Time finally allowed me the opportunity to pursue one of my grandest challenges that had hovered at the top of my list.  I decided to kayak the Florida Keys.  I departed from Key Largo at mile marker 100, and wove through the islands to Key West:  one hundred road miles (and maybe 110-115 nautical).  I camped the entire way, and brought the bare minimum with me.  I was alone.  I hoped to wrap it up in five days.  However, I am no professional kayaker.  My kayak is a simple, eleven foot sit-on-top.  The farthest I’ve kayaked in a single outing would probably be about eleven to twelve miles.  I have had numerous locals (including two kayak outfitters) tell me that I will not be able to finish this.  I was told currents, summer elements, actual distance, etc., would keep from finishing.  I built up plenty of determination. 

     I departed on Wednesday.  The first day was probably the easiest, in terms of tidal/current conditions.  I simply followed the ocean side shoreline to mile marker 77, where I found a sandy patch to throw up my tent.  This is when I discovered what might be my strongest opposition:  mosquitoes and no see’ems.  I would sweat way too much to keep myself adequately covered with insect repellent.  So, after maybe an hour, the bites would continue.  The heat was horrendous as well.  I was lucky to have little wind to battle against during the day, but the lack of it in the evening kept my bed sheet drenched in sweat at all times.  Nights were tough!

     The next few days offered amazing scenery and unique situations.  After day two, once I was in the lower Keys, I realized that I would not be able to plan my itinerary simply on routes that I would prefer, but rather on which way the water was flowing through the numerous channels.  It didn’t take me long to realize that I did not want to engage in a battle with the currents.  Beautiful remote islands, cruel Florida elements, amazing marine life, and a few spooky situations filled my days.  I had a particular scare with a current that insisted on pulling me from behind.  Another when a 12-14 foot hammerhead swam by, turned, and came by for a second look.  This had me a little edgy, but when a spooked fish jumped out of the water and hit me right in the chest ten minutes after seeing the big shark, I almost tipped myself.  I would stop at empty islands and sandbars for a repetitive snack of sardines.  I took many pictures, but looking at them now only frustrates me.  They do no justice to what I saw.  They serve as a reminder of the beauty of the waters and islands, the encounters with the marine and island life. 

     Wrecks were always fun to explore.  Key Deer woke me all night on Big Pine Key.  Testing out multi-colored swimming holes was automatic.  The calm flats in the morning resembled glass-offering amazing visibility.  As tough as the day was, sunsets were always a proud and precious moment.  I always felt a sense of accomplishment.  Despite my skin stinging from constant exposure to salt water, sun, sun block, and insect repellent; and the soreness of my bones and muscles; and the giant blisters that engulfed my hands, I felt appreciation at sunset.  

     I arrived in Key West on day four one day ahead of schedule.  I was very pleased the journey was completed.  This may have been one of the toughest physical challenges I have ever faced.  It already is one of the most rewarding.    I plan on doing this trip again, perhaps annually.  However, I will definitely do things a little different in the future.  I strongly recommend this trip!

Benjie Baskin

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