Off The Trails » PA Backroads Adventure

PA Backroads Adventure

Back Roads of Pennsylvania Adventure

We decided to take some of the back roads, the “off the trails” ways, of getting around Pennsylvania to make some discoveries. Traveling east on PA Rt. 30, also known as the Lincoln Highway, our first discovery was a double one! http://lincolnhighway.jameslin.name/by_state/

A covered bridge – Trostletown Bridge – built in 1873 and restored, traversed a small creek. Covered bridges were common in the 1800s and early 1900. They are also called “kissing bridges” in honor of young courting couples who took advantage of the cover for a quick kiss or two. Across from it was an American Legion Post with a tank and helicopter on display.

Further on, we veered off Rt. 30 to see the Flight 93 Memorial. Flight 93 is the plane that crashed in a field near Shanksville, PA on Sept. 11, 2001. The plane had been hijacked by terrorists and was probably on its way to destroy the White House, but the passengers heroically stopped that from happening. We were sobered by the place and the tributes that we saw. Shirts, hats, badges, crosses, toys, and so many items had been left by visitors. A volunteer explained the tragic events. Allow at least 15 minutes. There is no admission.

Another covered bridge, the Glessner, built in 1881, crosses Stony Creek and is open for public driving. On the way, we saw several small log cabins in various locations, nestled under the trees.

There are beautiful views in the Laurel Highlands! Long ago, the Ship Hotel perched on a mountainside in Bedford County, offering views of three states and seven counties! It looked like a steamer ship! It was a famous landmark, and was visited by Calvin Coolidge, Joan Crawford, and Thomas Edison, to name a few. Later, travelers like MaryJo stopped for ice cream or a sandwich and, of course, the spectacular views. In 2001 the building burned down, and only a small portion of the foundation remains, and the views. When we stopped there, another car pulled up and three young men told us they were here for a piece of the ship, which is something many locals are doing. A stop here is a must do!

Our next hidden gem was the 1806 log church, surrounded by the final resting places of parishioners dating back to 1806. The building itself is striking! Onward to another covered bridge, Colvin Bridge, dating to 1880. This is also open to the public. A huge Pied Piper overlooks Rt. 30. He guarded Storyland, a children’s theme park, until it closed in the 1980s. Arriving in the town of Bedford, we spotted the Jean Bonnet Tavern and the Coffee Pot. The tavern has been in operation since 1762 and was once owned by friends of George Washington and Ben Franklin. Stone walls, rough hewed beams and a ghost make this a unique attraction. The Coffee Pot was built in 1931 as part of a coffee shop, and is two stories tall. Today it sits alone and is being restored. The town of Bedford has some beautiful old homes and is built around the original squares in the deed dating from the mid 1700s. Ft. Bedford and Old Bedford Village are here. Ft. Bedford is the recreated French and Indian War fort. Old Bedford Village is a recreation of pioneer life in the period between 1750 -1850. A trip to Old Bedford Village took us back to circa 1800, where log buildings and wagon transportation were usual. Children attended one room schools like the Knisely School. Dr. Nycum’s office made us glad we live in the 21^st century! The 35 buildings and costumed interpreters make this an entertaining and educational trip. Allow 90 minutes. Admissions are $10 for adults, $5 for students and free for children under 5.

For dinner, we returned to the Jean Bonnet Tavern. We each had a glass of the Jean Bonnet Tavern Forbes Trail Ale. (Forbes Trail is another name for Rt. 30.) MaryJo chose the Chicken Chesapeake – chicken with ham and crab, potato, and asparagus. Greg’s meal was the Veal Neptune – veal with shrimp, crab, and pasta in a white wine sauce. For desert, we shared their famous oatmeal pie. Total before tip was $67. It was all delectable! The dining room is the basement, with chestnut beams, stones, hickory chairs, and an oversized fireplace providing marvelous ambiance. We’ll be back! www.jeanbonnettavern.com

Our home here is the Best Western Bedford Inn on Business Rt. 220. We have a spacious room with a coffee maker, fridge and Wi Fi. A hot breakfast buffet, pool (closed for the season), hot tub, sauna, and exercise room make this a good choice! Our room is a bargain at $89 per night.

On our second day, we took advantage of the hot breakfast buffet. Waffles, potatoes, scrambled eggs, oatmeal, bacon, biscuits, fresh fruits, and so on provided a delicious and filling start. Strolling around town and the squares, we enjoyed looking at the historical homes, with the original owner’s name and year built by the front door. Some of the homes are quite beautiful. The squares are set up as they were in the original deed, from the 1700’s. We stopped at the National Museum of the American Coverlet, for a very informative and lively tour. Our guide was none other than the Curator of the museum, Laszlo Zongor. Coverlets were hand woven bed coverings, made by the woman of the house until 1800. After that, weavers from Europe, displaced by the Industrial Revolution, made the coverlets, and they became very expensive. The pattern tells the background of the weaver. German coverlets had roses, vines, and other domestic themes. British ones were patriotic, with shields and eagles. By the 1860s, people bought readymade ones, and the art was lost. We saw many types of looms, including one that is the only 200 year old intact loom of its kind. The museum is housed in the old Commons School on Juliana St. Admission to the museum is $6 per person. Allow an hour.

http://www.coverletmuseum.org/

Shopping in town was fun –there are many shops – and when we were hungry, we went to the K & M Grill and Tavern. Not pretentious, but serving good, reasonably priced food, it’s a hidden treasure. MaryJo had a huge roast beef sandwich with a pony of locally made Rolling Rock beer; Greg had a fish sandwich with a beer; and the total before tip $12! This was our best bargain yet!

There are two wineries in town, the Hellix and Briar Valley. We went to both to taste, and came away with some fine wines to take home and have later to remember our trip. http://briarvalleywinery.com http://bedfordcounty.net/helixvillewinery/

Dinnertime, and we unanimously decided to return to Jean Bonnet, for a special birthday dinner. We opted to sit on the porch because the weather was lovely. Greg ordered prime rib, which was very tender and tasty; while MaryJo chose the orange roughy stuffed with shrimp and crab and was absolutely delicious. We each had a glass of wine. For desert, we shared a creamy peanut butter pie. Our total was $75 before tip. Other menu items are similarly priced and include Shrimp and Crab Scampi, Veal Gremolata, and Delmonico Steak. Salads and sandwiches are on the menu, too, as are items such as Chicken Parmigianino, Delmonico Steak, and Roast Chambord Duck. http://www.jeanbonnettavern.com/

Day 3

Another good breakfast at the buffet, and it was time to go. A double back to Shawnee State Park gave us some picturesque hiking. Camping, boating, and bicycling are available. We went to Gravity Hill, where gravity is defied, as a car in neutral will drift up the hill. There are two such spots on Gravity Hill, and we enjoyed both enormously, taking turns driving. Heading east again on the Lincoln Highway, we found another covered bridge. By the way, the Lincoln Highway is the first transcontinental road in the USA, beginning in 1913. Lincoln Caverns offered us a chance to walk, see some breathtaking formations, and add to our repertoire of cave knowledge. We had a private tour, since no one else was there! Sarah, our guide, was an expert! There are two caves, Lincoln and Whispering Rocks. Lincoln was uncovered in 1930, and Whispering Rocks later, while investigating sinkholes. We had fun while Sarah explained the formations and history of the caverns. We spotted several bats, and Sarah told us that there are between 300 and 400 bats living in the cave this time of year. She told us that many are suffering from a fatal disease, white nose disease; they are researching this. There is an old safe in the cave that was used to keep money overnight in the early days! Who would have ventured into the cave at night! The tour was about an hour, and admission was $11.95 each. Afterwards, we bought two bags of “paydirt” for $13 and panned for gems. What fun! We did find some very pretty crystals, onyxes, amethysts, and so on. http://lincolncaverns.com/

Lunch was late, but very good at the Stone Valley Diner. Our chicken wrap, Italian hoagie, and tomato and cheese salad was good! Our total tab was $18 before tip. The diner is not fancy, but offers good food and good service. Steve, the owner, suggested we go to Greenwood Furnace for some hiking and sightseeing, and we did. Good suggestion! It’s a very appealing area, and historical, too. The furnace was an iron works in the 19^th century, and a village grew around it. By 1900, it was very expensive bringing in the raw materials, and the mill closed in 1904. Some buildings, such as the church, nursery, and big house are still there. The park has a beach and campground.

It was a long day, and time to get to the Comfort Suite Hotel in State College. We have a beautiful room with a Jacuzzi tub, fridge, and coffee maker. Price is $109 before taxes, and breakfast is included.

Day 4

Our breakfast was very nice, with a variety of pastries, cereals, drinks, etc. Time to get on the road again! We drove by farms, forests, and quaint small towns, on our way to The Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania, or Pine Creek Gorge, in Wellsboro. For lunch, we found the Bullfrog Brewery in Williamsport. The huge murals on the walls outside first drew our attention. They depicted different time periods and famous people. The vats are on display behind the bar. Since it is a brewery, we tried a flight, seven 3 oz. samples of their own beer. We liked the Billtown Blonde, Das Bier, and especially Li’l Slugger. Williamsport is the home of the Little League World Series and the Little League Hall of Fame! The food was good, too, and varied. MaryJo enjoyed the Persian Platter: pita bread, hummus, babgounoush, lettuce, and carrots. Greg proclaimed his lunch, a portabella sandwich, “delicious.” Tab before tip was $25. Quite a bargain!

This Grand Canyon is 47 miles long and at the deepest point is over 1,400 feet. The overlook offers spectacular views, with the river at the floor of the canyon. The canyon is in Leonard Harrison and Colton Point State Parks. Activities include hiking, camping, birding, and fishing. In winter, cross country skiing and snowmobiling are popular. The Civilian Conservation Corp built this park in the 1930’s, as they built so many. A statue of a worker commemorates their contributions. We found a ruin of a small brick building and asked about its origin. We were told that it was an incinerator used by the CCC. Admission to the park is free, making it an affordable family destination. Depending on the activities, an hour to a few days could be allotted for a visit. Years ago, when MaryJo visited, a snack bar was at the visitor center, but is no longer there. An animal park is located nearby, on Rt. 660 and refreshments can be found here.

http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/stateparks/parks/coltonpoint.aspx

· Another long drive through farms, forests, and historic small towns. One of the towns is Wellsboro, founded in 1806, and a charming place. We spent the night in Hummelstown, just east of Harrisburg, at a Comfort Suite, for $89 plus taxes. A pretty room, with a sitting room, Wi Fi, coffee maker, fridge, microwave, breakfast, indoor pool, and exercise room make this a good choice for families. The sitting room has a pull out couch.

http://www.comfortsuites.com/hotel-hummelstown-pennsylvania-PA554

Supper was at The Wharf, on Derry Road, only about two miles away. We enjoyed an Eastern Shore Wrap (crab, lobster, and veggies), Italian Hoagie, chicken corn chowder, Kickin’ Crab Chowder and a glass of wine each for $34 before tip. Service was excellent, as was the food. We spoke with the owner, John Sakelaris, who is understandably proud of his establishment. His father started the restaurant in 1976. Most of his staff have been with him many years. His cook, for example, has been there for 23 years. His favorite dish is the Scallop Salad. His most popular dishes are the Crab Cakes and the Chicken Wings, which have won several local awards. A very pleasant outside patio is available for dining, as are the bright indoor dining rooms. Menu items range from lobster tail, to soups, to steaks, to pasta, to meatloaf. Kid’s menus are available. http://www.thewharfbarandgrill.com/

Day 5

Another good breakfast at Comfort Suites. A good workout and swim, and another day to get on the road.

We did a driving tour of Harrisburg, the capitol of Pennsylvania. The shops and restaurants of downtown were entertaining. Notable sights included the first skyscraper of Harrisburg and the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Municipal Building, the only one in the world to be named for a civil rights leader; Lunch was at a local favorite, The Gingerbread Man, aka The G-man. Greg was happy with his tuna salad sandwich, cole slaw, and gingerbread man cookie (it came with the meal). MaryJo’s tuna salad plate was good overall, although the overripe tomato and a few listless lettuce pieces flawed the meal. Iced teas were both good. The total tab before tip was a reasonable $16.

Riverfront Park, along the Susquehanna River, was moderately busy with bikers, walkers, joggers, and people watchers. The views of the river, picnic table, sculptures, and green space are inviting. A camel back pedestrian bridge allows visitors to cross to the other side of the Susquehanna. The Civic Club of Harrisburg is there, a spectacular early 20^th century Tudor style home with bright gardens. Occasional tours are offered.

Molly Brannigan’s is a pub that was rebuilt brick by brick from a pub in Ireland, and utilizes the Irish pub’s tap system, resulting in a slightly different beer taste. We know, because we tasted it. The pub is charming, cheerful and laid back. http://www.mollybrannigans.com/

At the end of the afternoon, we found our way to our home for the next several nights, Comfort Suites in New Holland. It’s a fine room with the must haves of coffee maker and Wi Fi, and the nice to haves like the fridge, microwave, and fitness room. Our window gives a pleasant view of the farm next door.

Dinner was at Vinola’s Restaurant and Bar on E. Main St in Leola. A wood interior was warm and inviting. We both chose the Drunken Scallops, a flavorful and colorful dish of scallops, mushrooms, tomatoes, spinach, and angel hair pasta with a vodka sauce, hence the “drunken”. There was no room for dessert! A glass of wine each complemented the meal. Service was excellent. The price for this was $44 before tip.

Tomorrow and the next day it’s Renfest time at the Pennsylvania Renaissance Festival at Mt. Hope Winery! This is a return for MaryJo to her very first Renfest, many years ago when there were only three children, not five!

Day 6

We temporarily interrupted our back roads trip to attend the Faire, which was wonderful fun! Check it out on its own page, under “Cultural Events.” On the back roads again, we strolled around the town of New Holland, with its stately Colonial and Victorian homes, and pretty gardens, while we did our laundry at Dirty Duds, since our Comfort Inn has no guest laundry. “People’s Restaurant” on Main Street has a retro menu, for anyone who is interested. Items such as sloppy joe, meatloaf, and capon are available. The food is not exceptional, but is very reasonable. MaryJo’s crab cake sandwich and Greg’s burger, with two soft drinks and a shared yummy slice of wet bottom shoo fly pie, came to $17 before tip. Also on Main St. is Legacy, a bookstore with current and used books, gifts, and cards. For $1.50, browser can have a cup of tea or coffee. The drink is free with a purchase. http://legacyusedbooksandcollectibles.com/

A trip to the New Holland Fitness Center gave us some much needed exercise. They have a pool! Comfort Inn has an agreement with them, so ask for a pass. It’s within walking distance.

Finally, dinner was at the Revere Tavern, an historic Inn dating to the 1740s in Paradise, about 20 minutes from the hotel. Stephen Foster’s sister, Eliza, lived there. Later, it was bought by her brother in law, President James Buchanan. We dined in the Stephen Foster Room, an attractive room with a huge stone fireplace, and beamed ceiling. We ordered the “Land and Sea for Two,” which is an appetizer, 10 oz. steak, choice of side, choice of salad, and choice of vegetable. We had the stuffed mushrooms as an appetizer. Greg chose the crab cake as his side, and MaryJo, the stuffed shrimp. Our vegetable was slaw. It was all delicious, and so filling, we have enough for a meal tomorrow. A ½ carafe of wine complemented the mal nicely. It is fascinating being in this historic site, wondering if Stephen Foster or President Buchanan had sat here or what important events might have happened. Other dinners include lobster tail, Chicken Chesapeake, Veal Capri, and an assortment of appetizers and desserts. Price ranges between $11.95 and $29.95 per dinner, with specials for two. Total before tip was $99. http://www.reveretavern.com/

Day 7

Our final day on the back roads took us to the Ephrata Street Fair and Roots Country Market and Auction, a combination auction, flea market, and farm market and Gettysburg Military Park.

The street fair in Ephrata was just getting underway as we arrived. Games, rides, and food vendors lined the streets. Young families and older couples strolled, looking for what they might want to do later. We stopped for a shared hot fudge sundae. So tasty! Ephrata is about a 30 minute ride from New Holland, through some pretty countryside. The town itself is older, with interesting architecture. Just wandering around town will take about an hour.

http://www.ephrata-area.org/

Roots was fascinating, with so much to look at and listen to and taste. It was only about 20 minutes from Ephrata. We first watched an auction, immensely enjoying listening to the auctioneer! The flea market section provided us with plenty of browsing, and an iron mermaid for the pond in the backyard. We wish we had more room in the car! The farm market part had fresh baked goods jellies, meats, cheeses, and produce. Cranberry beans, a red and white bean, were intriguing! The many varieties of apples, potatoes, tomatoes, and peppers splashed color to the scene. Gift items, books, and clothing were also featured. Roots is only open on Tuesdays, 9 to 9 April through October and 9 to 8 Nov. to March. It began in 1925 as a poultry market; we saw live chickens when we were there.

http://www.rootsmarket.com/

Our last stop, late in the afternoon, was Gettysburg Military Park in Gettysburg, PA. July 1 – 3, 1863, saw the Battle of Gettysburg, a decisive Northern victory in the Civil War. Southern troops were looking for shoes, and a shoe factory in Gettysburg was their target. Northern troops cut them off, and the resulting win turned the tide of the war. An Auto tour is available from the Park Service for about $22. This allowed us to stop at each designated site and hear about the history of the battle and the men who were involved. The tour lasts about 3 hours. Abraham Lincoln dedicated this park in November, 1863 with his famous Gettysburg Address. Monuments through the former battlefield honor those soldiers from both sides. A large Visitor Center provides information, other tours and a gift shop. The town itself has museums and historical sites, lodgings and restaurants, shopping and other activities. Allow at least one day, and two if possible, to appreciate all Gettysburg has to offer.